Katlyn Nowak Regina Volleyball Varsity

To Flash or Not to Flash – 5 Flash Photography Tips

Today’s blog will provide you with several tips on using flash while taking your photographs.  Considering that I am still learning the art of taking photos, the capabilities of the flash was of interest to me.  I feel the following tips will help any camera user understand how to use the camera’s flash whether shooting with a DSLR camera (with or without an external flash) or if shooting with a small compact camera or phone.  So here are my tips:

#1 – Fill Flash

Fill flash occurs when you tell your camera that you want to use the flash when there is daylight.  So take your flash off the auto setting and change it to “flash on”.  Having the camera set to auto flash in daylight will keep your flash off because the camera reads that there is enough light for the picture already. 

So if there is enough light, then why would we want more light?  Well this would be because the extra light will “fill-in” or eliminate the shadows on the people you are photographing.  Shadows can generally occur if you are taking a photo where the sunlight is behind the subject. 

#2 – Night Photography

When you are taking photos at night, you will want to set your camera setting to either “night portrait” or “slow sync” depending on the type of camera you have.  This will help coordinate your flash with the shutter in order to get a good exposure for your photo.  It’s basically going to slow your shutter which will allow for more light in the exposure. 

#3 – Pay Attention to the Background Area of Your Subject

Prior to taking your photograph you want to take note of the area behind your subject when using your flash.  This is because the light can bounce right back towards you and the camera which can cause the flash to be visible in your photo.  I have made this mistake in the past when shooting a subject in front of a glass window or a mirror so you will want to avoid any surface areas that can be reflective.

#4 – Diffuse the Light

Sometimes the flash can be too bright so it is a good idea to diffuse the light.  You can purchase an inexpensive diffuser for your flash or you can create your own with a simple piece of paper.  By covering your flash with either of the two you will soften the light which should eliminate any excessive brightness in your photo. 

#5 – Bounce the Light

Using this technique you will be able to lighten a larger area and provide a more subtle light source on your subject.  Try tilting your flash to the ceiling or maybe even a wall while taking your photograph.

These are just a sample of flash photography tips.  I would love to hear about any additional tips from you!

7 Composition Techniques for Taking Great Photos

Good composition is a significant factor to taking great photos!  So this week my blog post is about different composition techniques that can help you create artistic and interesting photographs.  I want to thank my good friend and awesome photographer, Angela Oberly, for providing me with some wonderful pictures to use for examples in this weblog. To see more of Angela’s work, please visit her Facebook Fan Page at https://www.facebook.com/AngelaOberlyPhotography.  So now let’s talk about the seven composition techniques for taking great photographs.

#1 – Rule of Thirds

The rule of thirds is based on the theory that the human eye is drawn to a point about two-thirds up a page or image. It is a composition technique that should be used in most of your photos.  Essentially, you want to envision a grid on your image that is divided into 9 equal parts by having 2 vertical and 2 horizontal lines.  Your focal point or the most important object of your photo should be positioned along these lines or at the points where they intersect.  This gives balance and attention to your photo. If you are shooting a close-up of an individual it is best if you place the subject’s head along the first horizontal line.

 

Source:  Graphicssoft.about.com

 

 

Source:  Angela Oberly Photography

#2 –Texture and Contrast

Texture can be used to create drama in your photographs. Consider taking a photograph with an old fence or a textured wall in the background.  The key is to use the texture to enhance your photo and not overload it.  Keep away from too many textures that will make your photo overwhelming.  Adding texture to your photographs will create contrast.  For example, a light subject will be more dramatic if you place them against a dark background. 

Source:  Angela Oberly Photography

 

Source:  Angela Oberly Photography

 

 

 

 

#3 –Patterns

It’s important to become aware of the patterns that are all around us so that we can take advantage of them in the photographs we take.  A pattern is a repetitive object or design in your photo such as a field of flowers, crowds of faces or designs in architecture. The secret to discovering patterns is to try shooting your photographs from different angles. 

Source:  Angela Oberly Photography

 



Source:  Angela Oberly Photography

 

 

 

#4 –Perspective or Angles

This one is a favorite of mine.  Your feelings for a photograph can change dramatically by taking the photo from different angles rather than taking the photo straight on. Some ideas to try are 1) squat down on your subject’s level; 2) Shoot upwards on your subject in order to create a dominant effect; 3) shoot from a different angle (left or right) or 4) get up on a chair and shoot downward on your subject.  Shooting the same subject at different angles can create a different story in your photo.

 

 

 

 

Source:  Angela Oberly Photography



#5 –Framing

There is an assortment of options available for framing your subjects such as doorways, bushes, tree branches, windows, arches, etc…  There are several benefits to framing such as it can draw attention to your subject and can also add depth, interest and layers to your photo.  A frame can also lead the viewer to the main focal point of the photo. 

 

Source: Patrick Studios

 

Source:  Angela Oberly Photography

 

 

#6 –Lines

Another composition technique is leading lines which are lines within an image that will lead your eye to a different part of the image.  There are many objects that can qualify as a leading line such as a fence, lines in a wall, trees, people, body position and the list can go on.  Keep in mind that the lines do not need to be straight.  Leading line photographs could be a subject walking down a roadway or it could be a background with lines like the photo below.

 

Source: Patrick Studios

 

Source:  Angela Oberly Photography

#7 –Symmetry & Balance

The last technique I will discuss is balance and symmetry. Symmetry for photography is when an image can be split down the middle and the left and right sides of the photo are mirror images of each other.  However, the rule of thirds conveys that an image is more appealing if it is asymmetrical.  There is no right or wrong but the type of photograph you decide to take should depend on the story you want to tell.

 

 

Source:  www.kuna-foto.de

Source:  Angela Oberly Photography

 

 

So what is your favorite technique?  I would love to hear from you! 

 

 

White Balance 101

So what exactly is white balance and what is it for?  Well each DSLR camera has a white balance setting which is used to make white objects appear “white” in your photographs.  When you take your photos, keep in mind that all light has some color to it. For example, if you are taking pictures in a gym you may have some halogen bulb lighting which will give off a red/orange color in your photos.  While taking the photographs you will not notice the red/orange color because our brain adjusts the colors that we see.  So adjusting your white balance setting will help make the white objects in your photos appear white.

The color of light (aka temperature) is measured in degrees Kelvin ranging from 1000 K to over 10,000 K.  Below is a chart I found on www.bloglovin.com that will help as a reference for color temperature and white balance settings.

White Balance Options

Your DSLR camera should have 3 options for your white balance selection.  They are 1) Automatic White Balance, 2) Presets for White Balance and lastly 3) Custom White Balance.  I will explain each option below.

Automatic White Balance

This setting allows the camera to attempt the correct temperature of light for your photo.  This option works very well most of the time until you come across a difficult lighting situation such as a gym with poor lighting or when you want the colors to be match exactly perfect.

Presets for White Balance

Your camera should have a variety of white balance presets for you to choose from.  These settings will compensate and make adjustments to your photos.  The presets that I have on my camera which should be similar in most cameras are:

·         Daylight – This preset would be used when it is sunny or general daylight conditions.

·         Shade – This preset should be selected if it is sunny out but you are shooting in the shade. 

·         Cloudy – This preset should be selected if it’s a rainy day or there is an overcast

·         Tungsten – This preset works best under photos with a normal light bulb or incandescent lighting

·         White Florescent – This preset works best for photos taken under florescent lighting

·         Flash – This preset should be used when utilizing the flash

So this is how the presets work - say I am taking a picture outside in the shade (which will have a blue temperature), I would want to select the shade preset in order to balance the color.  The camera will then add some warmth to the photo by adding some orange, red or yellows. 

Below are two photos I took.  One was with the auto white balance and the other was set to Shade notice the difference in warmth in the second photo.

Auto White Balance

 

Shade White Balance

Custom White Balance

If none of your presets or if the automatic white balance setting does not work well for your photos then you have the option of custom white balance.  I sometimes use this feature when I am shooting in a gym with terrible lighting.  What I usually do in order to create my custom white balance is I will take a picture of a white or gray object in the area I am shooting.  Then I set the image as my custom white balance for my future shots.  Each camera may be different so you will need to consult your manual for directions.  Another option, which I have not used, would be to select your color temperature from the set of values in your camera.  Below is a YouTube Video from www.mahalo.com on how to select your custom white balance in a Canon DSLR camera.

The best way to learn about white balance is to take several photos and for each photo select a different preset so that you can see the difference of color in the photographs.

Have you experimented with white balance?  I would love to hear your thoughts.

 

Focusing Tips and Tricks

Focusing correctly to ensure that your subject is sharp is a very important part to photography. Unfortunately, setting your camera to auto focus mode does not always give you the best results. 

Your DSLR camera will have two focusing options for you to choose, which are:

Manual Focus

This is when your camera will not focus on its own; the photographer adjusts the focus ring in order to focus. I do not recommend this option at first since it takes longer and it entails lots of experience.

Auto Focus

This is when your camera automatically focuses once you press the shutter release button halfway down.  This option allows you to focus more precisely and quickly.  Unfortunately, the auto focus can focus on the wrong subject.  Therefore, it is important to learn how to adjust your auto focus mode settings which I have discussed below.  With that said, keep in mind that most focus issues that occur are due to user error.  Learning how to master the technique of focusing can help you take awesome photos.

Auto Focus Mode Settings

One Shot AF or Single Servo

This focuses on a single spot when you press the shutter release button halfway down.  Keep in mind that if your subject is moving the focus stop does not move along with the subject.  It will remain in the same spot so you will need to refocus again.  This mode works very well with subjects that are not moving.

Al Servo AF or Continuous Servo AF or C

The camera focuses on one spot but it will continuously refocus as the subject moves.  This mode helps you keep subjects that are moving sharp.  I use this option when I am shooting sports.

Auto Focus Mode Settings – Selecting the AF Point

Another step is how to choose the focusing spot in your camera’s viewfinder.  Each camera can be different so consult your manual to learn how to select your auto focus points.  For the Canon camera you would look for a grid like symbol on the top of your camera.  Once you select the button, your camera will display 9 focus points.  Your options are to select automatic which will highlight all nine focal points or manual which will allow you to select only one of the nine focal points.

Source: LearningDSLR.com

Source:  myphotocentral.com

Below is an example from http://digital-photography-school.com website.  Notice that the focal selection point is to the left of the photo and that subject is the sharpest part of the photo.

I have included below a table that can help you with troubleshooting several focus issues.

Problem:	Blurry Image
Possible Causes:	If subject is moving then shutter speed setting may not be fast enough to freeze the movement or If the complete image is blurry it could be camera shake.  See my earlier blog about how to hold your DSLR camera to eliminate this problem. Keep in mind that really slow shutter speeds will require a tripod.
Problem:	Focus is on the wrong part of the photo
Possible Causes:	Aperture Setting:  Check your depth of field aperture setting you may be shooting too wide (lower aperture number). Lens:  It could be the quality of your lens.  Off-brand lenses will not give you the best results compared to a brand lens such as Canon and Nikon.  You get what you pay for. Focus Settings & Points:  Check your settings they could be off.

So what are your focusing tips?  I would love to hear them.

Getting to Know Your Camera’s Modes

If you have not yet mastered shooting your camera in manual mode and you are somewhat frustrated with the photos you have taken using your camera’s automatic mode function, then this week’s blog post will be of interest to you.  Learning how to shoot in manual mode for me was a bit overwhelming in the beginning, so I began to learn my camera’s semi-automatic modes first.  This allowed me to take partial control of some of my camera’s settings while I learned more about the three components of the exposure triangle and how they related to taking great photos.  The three modes that I will be writing about are Program Mode, Aperture Priority Mode and Shutter Priority Mode. I have also included several YouTube videos from butterscotch.com to help you understand each mode below.

Program Mode (P)

The program mode allows you to control the ISO setting, white balance and flash while the camera will adjust the shutter speed and aperture settings for you in order to get the correct exposure.  This mode is a step up from the automatic mode.  Some people would want to use this mode rather than automatic if they want to have control over their flash.  Another reason you would choose this mode is to select your own ISO setting.  Sometimes in automatic mode, the camera may choose a higher ISO rather than a wider aperture or slower shutter speed.  A higher ISO introduces more noise (grain) to your photo so being able to adjust your ISO will help eliminate the grain.

 

To understand ISO, a good assignment would be to practice taking photos in the Program Mode and adjust the ISO setting with each photo taken to see the difference in lighting and noise. 

Aperture Priority Mode (AV)

This mode allows you to control your aperture setting while the camera will adjust your ISO and shutter speed settings for you in order to get the correct exposure.  This mode comes in handy when you want to have control over your depth of field which will allow you to determine what objects/people should be sharp or blurry and out of focus.  It also allows you to control the amount of light entering the camera if you are taking photos in a low lighted area.  If I am not shooting sporting events, I typically shoot in this mode especially if I am shooting portraits.

Below is a photo I took at a photography class where I shot in Aperture Priority Mode in order to set my aperture f-stop to 2.8 to create a blurred background. 

 

To understand Aperture Priority, a good assignment would be to practice taking a picture of a non-moving subject while in Aperture Priority Mode.  Begin shooting your subject wide open (largest opening / smallest f-stop number) and go down one f-stop for each shot to see the difference in the photos.  You will notice that when you are shooting wide open your photos will have some blur in the background.

 

Shutter Priority Mode (S or TV)

This mode allows you to choose your shutter speed while the camera adjusts the ISO and Aperture to get the correct exposure.  This mode comes in handy if you are taking photos at a sporting event and you would like to freeze motion or create blur.  It is also a good mode to use when you are taking night time photos.  A fast shutter speed would be needed to freeze motion and a slow shutter speed will create blur.  One thing to keep in mind is that a shutter speed below 1/60 would most likely need a tripod in order to eliminate camera shake.  Below is a photo I took at a photography class I took using the shutter priority mode in order to freeze the motion of the water. 



To understand shutter speed, a good assignment would be to take photos of a moving subject in the Shutter Priority Mode.  Adjust your shutter speed for each photo and begin with a slow shutter speed such as 1/30 and continue until you reach a point that you are able to freeze the action.

 

So what mode do you like to use while shooting?  I would love to hear your comments. 

An Introduction to Aperture

The last few weeks I wrote about the first two components of the exposure triangle (ISO and Shutter Speed).  This week I will be writing about the final component - Aperture. 

So what is the Aperture’s function?  Well it’s basically the opening inside your lens and its purpose is to regulate the amount of light that enters your camera’s sensors.  Each lens will have a maximum and minimum aperture that it can open up to.  Your camera lens will indicate your maximum aperture right next to your lenses focal length (i.e., 55mm f/1.4).  If you look at your lens, you will notice that the minimum aperture is not listed.  You would need to find this information out from your camera’s manual.  Aperture is measured in f-stops. Listed below is a picture of a sample of f-stop sizes from the Wikipedia website.

Source:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-number

 

So do you notice anything funny about the numbers above?  Well the one thing that confused me in the beginning was the correlation between the size of the opening and the f-stop number.  Notice that the largest opening is indicated by f/1.4 and the smallest opening is an f/8.  You would think that the larger number would equal the larger opening; however, it is the exact opposite.  So important items to note are:

1.       Smaller number = larger opening

2.       Larger number = smaller opening

3.     In low light situations you would want to use a larger opening in order to let in  more light (i.e., 1.4, 2.8 or 3.5 depending on your lens)

4.     In highly lit areas such as outdoors you should be able to shoot with a smaller opening but this could change if you want to be artistic with your photos which leads me into my next discussion.

Depth of Field

Understanding the depth of field is a very important because this is how you can control what parts of the photo should be sharp and what parts of the photo should be out of focus/blurry.  Many photographers adjust their aperture for depth of field in order to get those nice blurry backgrounds also known as “bokeh”.  Unfortunately, your camera is not going to be able to know exactly what people to keep in focus on its own.  For example, you may be taking a group photo and you would like everyone in focus but what if you are at an amusement park and there are people everywhere.  Do you want those people in the background in focus for your photo?  How can the camera determine that?  Well by adjusting your aperture you can be in control. 

Below are some important things to note about Depth of Field.

1.      The people/objects located in the depth of field will be sharp

2.      The people/objects outside of the depth of field will be blurry and out of focus.

3.      The larger the opening (smaller number) the smaller the depth of field

4.      The smaller the opening (larger number) the larger the depth of field

In other words, if you want a blurry background you should use a larger opening/smaller depth of field.  If you are taking a family group photo and want everyone in focus you would use a smaller opening/larger depth of field.  So when deciding on your Aperture setting you need to think about the following:

1.    What people/objects do I want crisp and in focus?  For example, if I were shooting a group shot, I would use an f-stop of 5.6 or higher.

2.    Do I want a bokeh “blurry” background?  For example, shooting a close-up, I would most likely use a 2.8 f/stop.  Blurry backgrounds come in handy when you have an unpleasant background such as a parking lot.

Here are some pictures that I took to display the difference in Apertures.

The following photo was taken with a smaller aperture (larger number f/5.6) – notice that everything in the photo is sharp including the photo on the mantle.



The photo below of my sister-n-laws dog was taken in front of her garage, so I used a 2.8 aperture in order to blur the background.

I blurred the background on the group photo in order keep the cars in the parking lot out of focus.

So what’s your preference?  Do you like those blurry backgrounds or do you prefer all the details?   I would love to hear your comments.